Sofia Take Two

Background - My first trip to Sofia, Bulgaria was two years ago in August 2006. Sofia is where Ava was born and lived until 1991 when she moved to California. She's been back to Sofia four times before this trip to see family and friends.

It's been two years since Ava and I were last in Sofia, Bulgaria. So what were my initial impressions of Sofia on this second trip?

It's been a little over a year since BG was accepted into the EU, so I expected to see visiable changes.

First - the Sofia airport is now sporting a new terminal that looks very nice and presents a great first impression upon arrival. Clean, shiny surfaces. Good signage (including English). And all in all pretty efficient to clear through Passport checks, baggage claims, and customs review. No forms to fill out, just show passport, get your bags and get out. No need for us to deal with a rental car since Ava's aunt picked us up, but I'm not brave enough to drive in the capital anyways.

Second - on the drive from the airport, the number of newer cars on the road was surprising. It seems one of the results of an improving economy is that people replace the old cars. Many are used cars that have come from the US (and other countries), but most of the cars look to be less than 10 years old. There are a fair number of new and expensive cars (Porsche, BMW, Audi...even saw a Bentley one night). The driving habits seem to be improved as well -- I guess if you drive a new car you aren't as willing to risk a fender bender. Two years ago, it was down right scary sitting in the back seat of a car driving in Sofia. Now it's still a bit freaky at times, but not scary (at least not scary ALL of the time). It's almost to the point that I may consider renting a car next trip for our drives outside of the capital.

Third - as the price of gas passed $4/gallon at home before we left, I had been tracking gas increases for months. Well, $4/gallon is chump change compared to fuel prices in Europe. In Sofia, the price is about 2.50 leva/liter for diesel -- which works out to $7.72/gallon!!!! It was even more expensive in Italy -- diesel ended up about $8.61/gallon. So while the economy has improved, cars are newer which is great for improved emissions, but the overall number of cars has increased. So traffic is pretty bad now in and around Sofia at rush hour.

Forth - the basic infrastructure in and around Sofia is in need of major investments. The roads and sidewalks probably haven't had any work in the last two years. The roads are full of pot holes, some are big enough to be called sink holes. The locals know where they are and swerve all over the road to avoid them -- sometimes at 40 mph. So to the outsider, it looks like cars are just swerving around randomly, but it's an orchorstated manuveur that is anticipated by other drivers. The government really needs to pick up the pace of improvements in this area.

Fifth -- (the numbers will stop now) The number of new construction projects taking place within sight of older run down buildings is even more pronounced. It's just odd to see solid structurally sound buildings in need of TLC sitting next to the new 10-15 story hotel or business office building. It must be due to the ownership and legal structures of the old buildings that make it easier for developers to acquire land and start a new building. I don't have any real info on this situation but I just can't stop wondering why it's the case. It presents an odd juxtoposition of shiny new building along side what appears to be a run down structure.

These are just the top items that hit me at the beginning of this trip to BG. Nothing too deep or emotional. Sometimees it's strange what stays at the top of my mind on trips.